During London Fashion Week Men’s I got to take part of approx 20 wonderful shows and presentations. I haven’t featured them all here though, but it’s not due to me disliking the shows, rather the light being unsuitable for my yet close to non existent photo skills. The pictures (if not otherwise stated) however, are taken by me, so bare with me (I promise I will practice on my photography skills). My review will be alphabetical so you won’t think I favor any company above the other, but of course I’ll point out my favorite pieces and trends for AW17 which were shown at London Fashion Week Men’s.
Barbour International has its background in motorcycles and celebrates this long and rich heritage which they have since 1936. The International jacket, with its distinctive diagonal chest pocket originally designed to hold a map, remains in manufacture and has been picked up by classic bike aficionados and fashionistas alike. I myself own for example a Liddesdale Heritage jacket among some other pieces which is a great example of what this company does. They are very classical and stick to their heritage, but with modernized cuts and new technologies and materials.
Berthold was a new acquaintance to me. The clothes are characterised by a utilitarian sense of color and a silhouette that is free from defined shape in modern technical fabrics, light Italian wools and thick English cottons. As I’m moving more and more towards oversized fabrics, this collection really spoke to me.
Blood Brother is a British fashion brand with a cutting-edge approach to creating menswear, footwear and accessories collections. Blood Brother defines itself by a highly distinctive, precision-led aesthetic. With its signature nod towards a utilitarian visual language, its sartorial garment construction and its iconic technical outerwear, Blood Brother fuses the subtleties of contemporary fashion design and garment construction with the essentialities of comfort and functionality. Here we’re once again speaking my language. As much as I love color, some monochromatic pieces in your wardrobe is a must.
Bobby Abley. Ok, there really is no hiding the fact that I am absolutely in love with this brand which was unknown to me before this show. Bobby Abley is known for his unique charm, wit and humour (it’s true, the guy is hilarious which I know from following him on Instagram), blending nostalgic and playful imagery with a contemporary menswear design. Launching his namesake label in 2012 and receiving a place on the prestigious MAN catwalk for the inaugural London Collections: Men, Bobby Abley is one of the breakthrough menswear names of recent years and now finally known even to me. (Images courtesy of Bobby Abley©)
In between the fashion shows me and my trusted partner in crime, Cosmic Cernica, of course had to update our social media. In case you’re not following me on Instagram yet, do so as there is so much more going on behind the scenes than I can fit into blog posts or a picture on Instagram so do make sure to check out my Instastories. While standing outside the venues it’s har NOT to get shot by a photographer and this one outside 180 the Strand was taken by Pietro Recchia.
Harrys of London was another pleasant surprise which I didn’t know of before I went to their presentation (really beginning to sound ignorant here…). For AW17 the brand launched a capsule collection of bags, luggage and small leather goods, all thoughtfully designed to perfectly complement their extensive footwear collection. Unfortunately I only showcase some of the shoes here, but the totes as well as a travel pillow in rabbit (!) were absolutely amazing.
KTZ designs men’s and women’s ready-to-wear clothing with couture detailing known for its raw energy and contemporary urban edge, but also for embracing ethnographic references and multiculturalism. This probably was THE coolest show I was at and the clothes, well, you’ll see me wearing them some day very soon! (Photo credentials: Paolo Steve)
Yet another favorite show of mine was maharishi. maharishi literally translated means ‘great seer’. The brand was started in 1994 with a vision to create environmentally sound, fair-trade produced, long-lasting, high-quality, utilitarian clothing. The collection has always included hemp and natural fibres, organic cottons and recycled military clothing.
maharishi has evolved into one of the UK’s most influential designer labels, offering men’s, women’s and children’s collections available from exclusive fashion retailers worldwide. Founded by Hardy Blechman, Maharishi carries a strong ethos of respect for nature while utilising the latest technology. Here we can spot some of my favorite trends for AW17 (heck, I’ll use them and am already using them before that): pink, olive green and camouflage!
Nigel Cabourn. As the only (semi) decent pic I got from this presentation was the one to the right, I filled it up with the two invites to this presentations as Nigel Cabourn wasn’t only showcasing his own design, but also presented a collaboration with the Swedish brand Peak Performance. Hailed as a cult British designer, Nigel Cabourn has worked in the industry for over forty years producing collections, which are not influenced by ‘fashion’ trends but driven by inspirational stories of real people in history and vintage military, outdoor and work wear pieces. Those 40 years have really paid off well as his collection (as well as the collaboration) was quite astounding!
Phoebe English Man is originally a luxury womenswear label creating garments with an attention to precision and beauty who now introduce an exclusive capsule collection for men along with the Core Collection. Through the resurrection of lost, forgotten or little-used techniques, Phoebe English Man hopes to raise a respect for construction rather than decoration and bring a new dimension to young London design. Their presentation was really special and their pieces were beautifully crafted. (Pictures courtesy of Phoebe English)
Another label I was to discover was Private White V.C. The Private White V.C. brand pays homage to its namesake, WWI hero, Private Jack White. The clothing line has a subtle nod to Jack’s military legacy, with many items based on classic wartime pieces, updated with added functionality and detail for the modern man. Converting to androgyny for AW17, Creative Director Nick Ashley sought inspiration from Private White V.C.’s female customers for this season’s collection. Using fabrics and cloths Private White V.C. has developed and adopted itself, the AW17 collection will include double cloth, double face cloth and will briefly flirt with ripstop Ventile. (Pictures courtesy of Private White V.C.©)
QASIMI is a London-based contemporary menswear label that draws inspirations from socio-political issues, architecture as well as contemporary art; offering garments for men who seek an attitude within the conventional clothing and as you can see above, they featured my favorite upcoming trends: pastels and greens. I am overly excited to having had the opportunity to have seen this beautiful collection as well.
To sum it up I can somewhat boldly point out that I am basically ahead of my time as I already wear a lot of greens, pinks and monochrome, not to mention camouflage and colorful pieces (such as in Bobbly Abley’s AW17 collection), but all in all, I’ll be wearing them even more from now on and can’t wait to be back in June for yet another round of LFWM.
During my stay I once again had the pleasure of staying at the Leman Locke like I did a few months ago when I last was in London (read about it here if you haven’t seen that post yet) and you’ll be seeing a post from there coming in a few days, so be sure to check back soon.