Like I mentioned in my previous post, coming back to Fashion Week in Stockholm was very important for me on a personal level for so many reasons. It was everything I expected and more. I met old friends, made new friends and connections and had the time of my life. Enough about that though. What did Stockholm offer for AW17? As this is not a FW for men, there will be something for both ladies and gents in here. As usual the shows I attended are in alphabetical order to make it easier to keep track of what’s what.
Beckmans College of Design. The final-year students in Fashion at Beckmans have in previous years collaborated with Swedish fashion brands such as Acne, Back, House of Dagmar and Filippa K. This year, the project has expanded to Nordic designers – Danish 2NDDAY and Finnish Marimekko in addition to the Swedish fashion brands Hope, Oscar Jacobson, Whyred and Orjan Andersson. These six successful labels have generously shared ideas and techniques with the Fashion students, who have developed them and added their own creative universe. The result is twelve personal fashion collections created on the basis of each brand. Above are my three favorite looks from the show which also show the diversity that was displayed.
Busnel. An active lifestyle continues to inspire Busnel without losing the French heritage. The woman they picture for the autumn/winter 2017 collection is independent and feminine. She finds herself easily transforming her style for any occasion, from a dressy day in town to a casual day in the Alps. Highlights in the collection are the Thin Stripes, such as the long coat, straight trousers, short jacket and the pencil skirt. The idea of the tailored set is central in this theme. The Merinos is also a favourite part of the collection, which includes ready to wear pieces with an urban chic touch. The sensual shapes, multiple functions and the super soft fabric are the strengths of The Felted Wool theme. Bell sleeves keep showing up on the catwalk, but I don’t mind as they come in various shapes and forms.
Dailyroutine. The collection is inspired by the times we live in and the way the world around us is changing. The rebel has been given more space. The influence is dandy punk and how to protest silently. To break the standards. Daring to be your own hero, which is one of the core values for Daily Routine AW17.
Emelie Janrell. Coup De Grâce is the first full collection to be shown at fashion week, a premier collection that stands on its own; with vibrant colours ranging from purpur to saffron, embroidered pearls, shells and gems on delightfully seductive garments. The collection explores classic notions of femininity, craftsmanship as art and without compromising the empowerment of owning your own body. The absence of black as a shield is as apparent as working with exclusive materials, exceptional execution and power dressing the female shape.
Ida Sjöstedt’s collection is inspired by the animated movie with the same name (Belladonna of Sadness). It’s a dark tale of of a young virgin who makes a pact with the devil to become sexually powerful. As her power grows, the men around her weaken and this in the end leads to her ruin. It’s about the cliché of women being seen as innocent versus sexually strong is as much a contradiction as a symbiosis.
L’Homme Rouge’s collection Stompers is inspired by an imaginative, alienated group of young Swedish harbour workers. In a time of rebellion this group of social outcasts created a voice for themselves through provocative expression of re-worked luxury clothing they found in misplaced shipping containers. These shameless expression and the group’s do it yourself mentality inspired a whole generation to break free and manifest their discontent. The fact that yours truly photo bombed every single photo in Vogue’s coverage from the show made me use their pictures, so photo courtesy goes to Vogue/Luca Tombolini. This collection appealed to me in so many ways and not just because the models were hot (well, that too), but they made me think purple again. A color I’ve resented for so long.
Lazoschmidl. For their Velvet & Cream collection Lazoschimdl actually made a fashion show which made me smile. Their clothes are hilarious and toss in a bit of leopard and of course I’m sold. Think of the red light district in Frankfurt, Washington Boulevard in Los Angeles, installation art by Keith Sonnier and Bruce Nauman. Neon signs, broken hearts and the search for fast and eternal love. Classics of gay culture re-contextualized. Velvet and silk, lipstick on cheeks, the taste of liquorice and raspberry ice cream. Freedom. That’s Lazoschmidl for you!
Naim Josefi. GANGS is a tribute to Yves Saint Laurent’s The Mondrian collection from 1965, where simple shapes with art-inspired patterns mark a new area in fashion: ready-to-wear. To keep it simple and accessible, Naim Josefi shows denim as the key fabric of the collection. Supporting sustainability, production is situated in Portugal and uses ecologic denim fabrics with a high-tech laser treatment to create the patterns. The laser technology reduces the water consumption by 80% in the washing process. Did we hear sustainability? Yes!
The Rodebjer AW17 collection is an embodiment of ferocious female power. Channeling the force and the explosive, brilliance of women able to sidestep all obstacles – the collection is eclectic and unapologetic, über-womanly and strict. All patterns in the collection are derived from organic shapes found in nature, the flowing multicolored pattern of peeling eucalyptus bark, the fleshy and sexual shapes of orchids or the near abstract dots of tiny, scattered forget-me-not flowers. Combined they create an intense camouflage serving to enhance, rather than hide, the personality of the wearer.
In Stylein’s latest collection, Timmervik, designer Elin Alemdar finds inspiration at home – from the sober, yet electrifying Scandinavian nature combined with genuine craftsmanship. With the brand’s signature minimalistic expression, Stylein presents its rawest and most honest collection to date. The color palette ranges from shades of black, navy and dark forest green to soft tones of icy white and bright orange inspired by sea backtorn.
Swedish Fashion Talents is a show hosted by the Swedish Fashion Council where they showcase new talents. Here we have three designers, Ama Awe, Johannes Adele and Naemi Gustavsson, who all came across with completely different looks and blew me away in different ways (that gold jacket, for real!). Swedish Fashion Talents is a project that the Swedish Fashion Council has been managing since this project 2005 when it started. The aim we’re striving towards is to support new fashion brands with their growth to become recognized within the fashion market. The talent program is being implemented in every way, within different projects, networks and activities such as fashion shows and exhibitions.
Valerie. This autumn/winter 2017 collection is inspired by a truly mysterious atmosphere flirting with the 80s, embracing women and their strong power. Seductively stylish and sometimes dangerous forces, set the theme this season. Their main influence comes from characters of science-fiction-horror, portraying an impossible love affair and an uncertain future.The forest, the universe and the supernatural become one in a new parallel world.
Velour by Nostalgi was certainly something! “It is time to take responsibility in menswear and give ”today’s man” a viable option!” This is the focal point for Velour by Nostalgi’s AW17 collection. The collection is a result of environmental activism and the “Anglophilic” look and attitude that prevailed in Gothenburg at the end of the 90’s and the early 2000’s. The look is basically 90’s British with knitted cardigans, pullovers, polo-like uppers in combination with a sporty silhouette. The color theme is brown, mustard yellow, green, old pink, black and navy, with added communicative thematic prints and patches.
The Whyred AW17 collection has been inspired by Aniara, a science- ction poem written by the Swedish Nobel Prize laureate Harry Martinson in 1956 about a spaceship of the same name. As well as the literary work itself, the sets created by the renowned Swedish artist Sven “X: et” Erixson for the 1959 production of Aniara, staged by the Royal Opera in Stockholm, provided many of the references. Erixson’s original drawings have been used for prints that appear on some of the pieces, injecting a kind of playfulness into the clothes and bringing interesting new elements to other parts of the design. And if there is only one single thing I’d want from the entire Stockholm FW it has to be the fur jacket to the left!
Which one’s your favorite?
Pictures courtesy of Fashion Week Stockholm.