It took some time to get it up here, but here’s finally my recap of Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 18 and a bit wiser from the hectic schedule I only chose 14 shows to recap, despite the fact that there are some shows that for sure would have been worthy of a feature now that I think of it and all in all I attended 20 shows. Less than London, but still hectic for the 4 days I was here. As always they are in alphabetical order, as not to favor anyone in particular, but you’ll probably figure out which ones I liked more than others anyway along the way.
Christian Pellizzari is an Italian designer who time from time needs to find himself (don’t we all?) and does that by going back to his roots and Venice in particular. I remember going to Venice as a child and actually can see patterns of Piazza San Marco’s pavement on the shorts and jackets as well as the silver stars inspired by the mosaics on the facade of the Basilica. Pellizzari is one out of many who went for the denim-on-denim look for SS18 and this one is coming in strong. True to his Venetian origins this was a flare of fresh air in the not so coastal city of Milan.
DAKS put on a really fun show that at first made me think of Great Gatsby as all the models came out with a huge grin on their face and obviously had fun while wearing what you see here. Taking a closer look at the press release I was at least right regarding the decade as the collection wants to bring us back to the British Social season and The Henley Royal Regatta in particular where ambitious young gentlemen sport sophisticated jackets with colored trims, apliqués or jacquard weaved coats of arms. The collection screams of youth and charm from the eyes of those who worry not of the future, but who are sailing the waters of the present. To me it’s as much an homage to the past as it is to the future and we’d all sail the waters of the present the world would be a much happier place.
Diesel Black Gold embraced a street-wise sensibility for its first co-ed runway show, however, I’m going to focus on the guys here. Creative director Andres Melbostad put a mixture of urban aesthetic with athletic references to bring out a new “Techo-Grunge” attitude. I might have been somewhat more excited if the vision came through as I was a kid in the 90s and lived through both the techno and grunge era, but something is missing and it might have been the early morning, but to me, the only thing memorable about this show is that Jordy was in it.
Emporio Armani is nothing I’d usually enjoy or even automatically attend. However I’m glad I did as, although they were there, it was not all about blue and black and to my surprise there were Oriental inspired pieces, seersucker suits, short broad pants, shorts, jumpers with holoprints and all kinds of geometric patterns. The focus of the show was the insciption on the wall “Made in Armani” and I’m glad I made this trip to Armani land to get reaquainted with a brand I didn’t care too much of before. And oh, see, there’s Shawn Mendes stalking me again. Apparently he’s promoting a techy gadget Armani wrist watch and somewhat awkwardly made his debut on a runway. I’ll give it to him that he made it through the whole thing and kept smiling.
Frankie Morello took us on a quite mind blowing journey all the way from space to the unexplored depths of the abyss and finding the similarities between the two. The mere fact that the models were walking on water put an extra bit of holiness into the collection and it was a brilliant show to end Milan FW Men’s with. All the pieces are, the outworldish tone aside, made in Italy and it is only fair FW ended with this brilliant example of how fun Italian fashion can be. I just want to point out that we also here see the denim on denim trend going strong.
GCDS showed for the first time at MFWM and is an acronym for ‘God Can’t Destroy Streetwear’ and looking at this collection I think God, after all, isn’t almighty as he seriously cannot. This is streetwear inspired by the Gulf of Naples which has a rich naval history and the maritime and nautical theme could be seen throughout the show in evertything from backpacks, shoes as well as mesh tank tops. Looking like this even I might go fishing.
Malibu 1992 has a designer named Dorian Gray (seriously) and it’s fun to see the resemblance of youthful hedonism which is portrayed in Oscar Wilde’s The Picture of Dorian Gray. Dorian Gray used elements of sex, drugs and rock & roll and came up with a moody line-up of oversized garments boasting decadent textiles and morose colors. Graphic prints on tees and hoodies embodied the streetwear elements of the collections. And if I don’t get my hand on the “I <3 to make boys cry” cropped shirt, I will make boys cry for real. The inspiration sounds almost psychedelic with words used such as ‘religion, surf, luxury, melancholy, goth culture and fitness’ and as I know I wasn’t tripping, this show actually made all these come together which is an achievement in itself.
Palm Angels is a show which was so hyped by both me and others that whatever would have come down the runway would have been a disappointment, so I’ll at least try to hide it a bit and stick to what I actually saw. The designs can be best described as assortment of upscale, skate-inspired apparel and accessories. Art director Francesco Ragazzi says they are a result of his Italian sartorial background mixed with the laid back vibe skaters in LA have and which he admires. To me this was a trip to La La Land, not in the good way.
Poan with the Austrian designer Georg Weissacher was the special guest of White Man & Woman June edition of the leading international trade show, sponsored by the City of Milan and had their first runway show in Milan this season. To Milan Weissacher brought his very own utopian philosophy in a collection named ‘The Phenomenon of Man’. I did spot it on the runway, but it wasn’t until I read the press release the pieces fell into place. This lovely Austrian is London based and hence mixes edgy with classical tailoring. POAN is short for Peoples of All Nations and this was clear even in the casting, but also in the diversity of styles. And I have to give a small mention to my friend David Lundin (in the middle) who walked the runway. #proudfriend
Sulvam, with Teppei Fujita as designer for SS18, likes to celebrate the beauty of imperfection. The collection was all about deconstructing patterns and about adding a glimpse of hope into an otherwise chaotic world. The layered looks were casual and once again we run into the denim on denim trend which apparently is something to put on the list for SS18, as we’ve seen so far. I love the way he created an illusion of cutoff shorts on jeans and was ever so playful with zippers, raw-edge denim patch pockets, seersucker jackets and pants. A+ in my books.
Sunnei has stripes as their trademark and hence didn’t let us down this time either, even if some more playful patterns were infused into the collection. I don’t know what Vogue is talking about after having read their review of the show (they said it didn’t quite deliver), but I’d want to say they did just that. Deliver. Maybe the guys and gals at Vogue are too old, as they’re definitely not too young, to remember who Tom Anderson, founder of Myspace, is as they wondered what on earth a “Tom meme” was doing on a tee in the collection. To me this collection was young, fun and innovative and paid tribute to some young adulthood nostalgia. Why do I want to trash talk Vogue here? Maybe because I think Vogue reviewing anything else than haute couture is like having my grandpa trying to understand how to use Snapchat.
TOD’S x Mr Porter arranged an amazing pool party on Via Mozart with their collaboration floating both in the pool as well as the models who were here and there alongside the pool. The exclusive high summer capsule collection has the iconic Italian label TOD’S teaming up with Mr Porter and the result is 27 pieces of all thinkable colors out there. Huge applauds and a wonderful party at that.
Wolf Totem is a brand that really catches your eye with their strong, elegant and eye catching tonalities. The palette of the brand ranges from blue, to white and black and recalls mythological figures and far-away quotes such as dragons and snakes. This brand may be resting on ancient mythological legacy, but is truly contemporary in its design. A central figure for the brand is the wolf in all its noble wild spirit and pride essence. Wolf Totem recalls the past and divides ‘what was’ with the future ‘what will’ in a genius way by combining all kinds of different cultural and aesthetic styles. Shortly put: East meets West.
Wood Wood is a welcomed friend from my neighbors in Denmark and although they do play with Scandinavian minimalism I was surprised some color even made it into their collection for SS18. Maybe this is because the collection takes it outset in the lifestyle and atmosphere of the Italian province of Campania and the collection fuses colors, silhouettes and general inspiration from the region with the contemporary fashion aesthetics of Wood Wood. Although they are making the capital mistake of flirting too much with the LV x Supreme collection, I do forgive them as they’re showing us that denim is the shit even here. Way to go neighbors!
So, now you know my thoughts on Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS18. What are your favorites?
Pictures courtesy of Imaxtree.